Side-striped Chameleon (Chamaeleo bitaeniatus) – Kibale National Park, Uganda – Africa

Chameleons are one of my favorite photography subjects for many reasons. Firstly, their overall look is striking with the eyes moving independently and their color changing before your eyes. Secondly, they’re slow moving behavior means photographing them relatively easy compared to some terrestrial lizards that you can barely catch, let alone photograph. Finally, I discovered that you can feed them grasshoppers and they’ll grab them with their tongue right in front of you! It doesn’t get much better than that for wildlife subjects. Also, the variety in size, color and physiology among chameleons ensures a unique experience with each new species found.

Butterfly photos from Kibale National Park, Uganda – Africa

Uganda holds an astonishing 1200+ species of butterflies. Compare this to North America’s 650 species or United Kingdom’s 50 species, and it is clear how impressive a number this is. Of course that is comparing an equatorial region to a temperate seasonal climate with a short breeding season. Kenya contains around 1000 species at comparable latitude.

Butterflies are often a challenge to photograph since they are usually seen flying or can be shy to approach. But over time I’ve been able to capture a few of the species found here in Kibale National Park. At some point I have to sort through and label them all, but up to now it has been fun to see the diversity in color, shape and size. Also, one aspect of butterflies I never realized there is significant variation in pattern and size of males to females of certain species. Now I’m fairly certain I have the bellow species correct with both sexes represented with significantly different color and pattern:

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White Rhino Photos – Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Uganda

On my mother’s first day in Uganda we headed for the Budongo Forest where we’d track chimpanzees among old growth mahogany trees. On rout we passed a sign for the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, which I’d heard of but didn’t know much about. Since there are no wild rhinos, either black or white species, left in Uganda my mom and  figured why not stop and see them. For some reason I thought this was going to more of a zoo experience with the rhinos in little fenced in pens where visitors could view them. It is nothing like that.

The rhinos are essentially wild, foraging in the open bush. They do have rangers with them at all times for protection and the 70 square kilometers has a 3m high electric fence to keep the rhinos from wandering into trouble. The most spectacular thing about this sanctuary is the experience that awaits visitors. Viewing the rhinos takes place on foot, which is such a unique experience in Africa for any wildlife viewing. But the white rhino is the second largest land animal behind the elephant and therefore has a commanding presence when you happen to be on foot nearby.

My mother and I had a spectacular viewing with a female rhino and her 1.5 year-old calf. As if that wasn’t enough, the dominant male came traipsing out of the bush covered in mud after a cooling mud-bath. He was massive and the mud-covered look certainly added to his intimidation factor. Since these animals are with the rangers 24/7 they are very habituated to humans and non-aggressive. It is a spectacular wildlife experience and highly recommended to any who are on rout to Murchison Falls National Park here in Uganda.

Mabamba Swamp Bird Photos – Entebbe, Uganda

On a recent trip to Entebbe to pick my mother up from the airport I stopped at the Mabamba Swamp to try for another shoebill sighting. Mabamba is located across the bay from the Entebbe airport, but to get there is at least an hour from Entebbe on some dusty roads. I had a GPS and figured I’d give it a shot. The GPS map has some point just before the swamp that said ‘Harington’s Shoebill Guiding Service.’ I figured that would be the best place to start. I neared the end of the road and the vast swamp became visible in the distance. As I bumped my way down the heavily potholed road there clearly was nothing resembling a tourist guiding service.

Just before the road ended a man came running out from a mud-hut waving his arms at me to stop. Normally it is not advisable to stop for such people, but since the road was about to end anyways, I figured I’d hear him out. He comes to the window and says, ‘Hello, my name is Harington!’ I started laughing and introduced myself. Later, I showed him the GPS with his name and location inside, his eyes went wide and a big smile crawled across his face.

We did not see any shoebill but there were many other great swamp species to see. Harington said the morning is the best time for the shoebill. I was pleased with the jacanas, kingfishers, and it is always a thrill to be in such a vat papyrus swamp.

Grey-cheeked Mangabey Photos – Kibale National Park Uganda

Some of the perks of working in the canopy is that many other wildlife species will visit a fruiting tree. I’ve been in a single tree with chimps, red colobus monkeys, grey-cheeked mangabey monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, and blue monkeys nearby. I find the grey-cheeked mangabeys to be an interesting monkey with their intense gaze, long cat-like tails and their calls are really fascinating to hear. They are generally very shy, but this particular group is studied and therefore habituated to humans.

African Wood Owl Photos – Kibale National Park, Uganda

There was a woman here surveying for moths at night. This is done by using a bright light to attract the moths and then cataloging the species. The interesting thing was many animals began keying into this bounty of moths attracted to the lights. The baboons would come by in the morning and rip the wings off the big moths and eat the bodies. Crowned hornbills would pluck them off the wall in a flyby. At night the genet cats would come by and eat them off the walls and also the African wood owls would perch in the shadows before silently swooping in for a meal. The owls would be hooting back and forth only a few meters from our open window. It’s a great chorus to witness.

The interesting thing for me is the African wood owl is in the same genus as the North American spotted owl; Strix. There is a clear similarity in the plumage of both the wood owl and the spotted owl but also in their calls. They have a 7-note hooting call and a single rising hoot. Both similar to the spotted owl I worked with in Yosemite National Park in California, USA.

It is certainly a fun bird to see let alone watch it pluck moths from the wall of our house

Fort Portal High-dynamic-range – Uganda

One a recent trip to town I passed an hour by walking around and trying a few High-dynamic-range images on the main roads in town. I’d like to expand on some of these photos and target some of the main features in town. For now, these images give a slice of town life in Fort Portal, Uganda.

Birds of Semliki Game Reserve, Uganda – Africa

The Semliki Game Reserve is located at the south end of Lake Albert in western Uganda. It sits within a large valley walled in by east and west rift escarpments and the northern part of the Ruwenzori Mountains. It is a unique area for birds with many diverse habitats; lakeshore, huge swamps, acacia scrub, savannah, and riverine forest. Civil war, rebel and refugee occupation along with widespread poaching has decimated the Game Reserve’s once abundant mammal species. Once boasted to have the largest lions in all of Africa by one European hunter, now the likelihood of seeing a lion in the Game Reserve is slim to none. For that reason, it is not a major destination on most tourist itineraries.

However, the birds seem to be thriving with my list topping 110 species, the majority of which were seen in camp along the shores of Lake Albert. Storks, egrets, herons, bee-eaters, sunbirds, gonolek, kingfishers and more all zipping through camp to and from their nests. The morning chorus of bird songs was so thrilling. I was up with the sun every morning to watch the dawn foraging parade of colors and beaks flashing through sunlight.

It is a spectacular birding destination and I can’t wait to return.

Tree Pangolin – Kibale National Park, Uganda

10:30pm and there is a not on the door. I get out of bed and I hear David, a PhD student researching golden cats, announcing that he has something to show me. I open the door to find a dinosaur looking creature clawing the concrete at my feet. I’m in awe at this mammal that looks like an armored reptile from long ago. It is a tree pangolin (Phataginus tricuspis). Pagolins are insectivores that evolved from some arboreal mammal over 70 million years ago. No other mammal has more than the 47 tail vertebrae found in the long tail of the tree pangolin.

Pangolin is a Malay (Malaysian) word meaning ‘one that rolls up’ and from the photos you can see how it can roll itself up into a ball, using its tail to wrap the body. Being insectivores, pangolins have no real need for teeth and therefore lost the ability to chew. Their tongue however is the length of the animals head and very sticky to collect various insect species. The tree pangolin mostly eats termites, which they will descend to the ground at night to forage on and use their powerful claws for digging.

Batwa Pygmies of Ntandi Village – Semliki National Park, Uganda – Africa

Uganda is home to a remnant population of pygmies. These are people who’ve traditionally lived as hunter-gatherers along equatorial Africa and Southeast Asia. They are called pygmies because their short stature rarely tops 150cm or just under 5ft. There are various theories that attempt to explain why pygmies are so much smaller than other humans. One idea is that living in the sunlight-deprived jungle inhibits the human skin from producing vitamin D, therefore leading to a calcium deficiency and stunted bone growth. Another theory is that it is advantageous to be small in equatorial rainforest to facilitate more efficient movements; the smaller one is, the easier it is to move through the jungle. It could be a combination of the two, or an entirely different reason for their small size.

Another interesting aspect related to their size is that other mammals living within equatorial rainforests have also evolved smaller than their non-forest dwelling relatives. Elephants, buffalo, duikers (antelope), and even hippopotamus have close forest-dwelling relatives that are considered pygmies due to their decreased size. So there is certainly some environmental evolutionary pressure on these mammals that makes them smaller than their non-forest relatives.

Sadly, the human pygmy’s way of life is fading as commercial logging reaches deeper into the jungle and government relocation programs force them into a sedentary lifestyle; a lifestyle they’re not adapted for. Uganda is home to isolated groups, called the Batwa Pygmies, which historically roamed the vast Ituri Forest of eastern Congo. Today, all the pygmy groups in Uganda have some level of modern influence. Whether through relocation, disease, trade or access to medical care, their culture and way of life will never be the same. It is the age-old reality that occurs when any modern and more technologically advanced society encounters another less developed one. In the case of the pygmies and western civilization, the contrast couldn’t be more defined.

On a recent visit to the Semliki Valley in western Uganda we decided to visit the pygmy village of Ntandi. We had certainly prepared ourselves for the likelihood that this might not be an uplifting experience, but regardless, our interest to learn more about the pygmies fueled our decision. By all accounts it sounded as though we’d enter this village of only pygmies living a mix of traditional customs and those of modern Uganda. The reality was something much different.

We stopped at the Semliki National Park headquarters to get more information and ended up acquiring a ranger to translate and facilitate our experience. There was an expected negotiation for the cost of visiting the village and all parties agreed that it was best to have a local lead the interaction.

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Marabou Stork Photos, Uganda – Africa

Marabou storks are iconic in any of Uganda’s human settlements. Nesting in tiny trees between Kampala’s busy streets to a remote safari camp’s trash pit; there will no doubt be one of these giants picking through the human refuse. Of course you’ll get pied crows and other smaller sparrows that associate with humans, but the marabou storks are bigger than most children under the age of 15! In all my travels, I’ve never seen such a large bird successfully associate alongside humans. These marabou storks seem to do quite fine here in Uganda’s cities, towns and villages.

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African Openbill Photos – Semliki Game Reserve, Uganda – Africa

This is an interesting species because, as the name implies, there is a large opening in its bill, which it uses to extract the meat from snails and bivalves.  The bill is evolved to sever the muscle that holds a snail inside its shell, allowing the bird to shake out the meat for consumption. I didn’t have a chance to see the behavior but I did see one adult flying with a snail in its bill. Next time I’ll try and capture an image of the snail extraction technique. I also captured one of the most bizarre bird poses I’ve ever seen. It was just after a hard rain and the sun came out so lots of birds were in the open trying to dry off before nightfall. I saw this African openbill standing erect with its wings turned upside-down, drying the undersides. It looked like some yoga pose! I captured a blurry image due to the heat waves coming off the ground, but it shows the bird’s pose well.

Grey-headed Kingfisher With Prey – Semliki Game Reserve, Uganda – Africa

I spotted this grey-headed kingfisher flying through the bush carrying a tropical house gecko in its beak and I knew it must be headed for a nest. The campsite where we were staying was right along the shores of Lake Albert in the Semliki Game Reserve in western Uganda. I spotted this kingfisher along the shore of the lake and the only logical place for its nest would be in the sandy cliffs along the lakeshore. I lost sight of the bird and ran down to the shore to wait. I saw the kingfisher high in a tree chattering back and forth on a perch with its mate. It still had the gecko in its beak.

The cliff along the shore was riddled with nest holes from countless avian species. I’d already seen grey-headed, malachite, pygmy, woodland, and pied kingfishers not to mention the possible bee-eaters; blue-cheeked, blue-breasted, red-throated, and cinnamon-chested. I was hoping the kingfisher would fly to a lower perch before entering the nest, giving me time to capture a few images before it went subterranean. My experience with cavity nesting ground birds is they always have a location opposite their nest where they perch, presumably checking that the coast is clear.

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Shoebill Stork (Balaeniceps rex) Photos – Lake Albert, Uganda – Africa

What do you get when you combine a pelican with a stork? A shoebill! Sort of…

This is a monotypic bird, meaning it belongs to its own family. Recent work has found the shoebill is probably closer to pelicans than any other species. This is a very old species, as are pelicans clocking in at over 30 millions years old! Just the overall look of the shoebill hints to some ancient reptile from the age of dinosaurs.

This shoebill was photographed in a large swamp at the south end of Lake Albert in western Uganda near the Semliki Game Reserve. The shoebill’s habitat comprises of large tracts of swamp made up primarily of papyrus, cattails, reeds and tall grasses. Since the species is dependant on large natural swamps, it is declining as a result of human’s desire to drain swamps and ‘reclaim’ the land, burning, and diverting water for human consumption (electricity, drinking, irrigation etc).

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Life along the Road – Semliki Valley, Uganda – Africa

There are so many sights and aspects of local life that occur along the roadsids here in Uganda. Man of these are a challenge to capture when wizzing past the car window. So, on a recent trip to the Semliki Valley I experimented with taking photos out the vehicle window in an attempt to capture moments of daily life. In a way, it’s a sneaky way of capturing the daily lives of the local people. The majority of cases, if I were to stop the vehicle and present my camera, people would scatter or cover their faces. However, when taking images out the window of a moving vehicle, the camera is concealed and often the people are unaware of any pictures taken.

These images offer a slice of western Ugandan culture. I tried to capture images of common sights along the road; bags of charcoal lashed inside burlap bags to be used for cooking displayed for sale along the road, stacks of bricks smothered in mud to create a large kiln to harden the bricks, children playing outside their homes, and several photos presenting various ways of transporting goods here in Uganda. I hope you enjoy.

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